I heartily love to cook, so summer and fall, when my own garden and the farmers markets are coming into their own, simply titilate me. O the joys and wonders. Last week when we went to the Tacoma Farmers Market on Broadway we purchased our usual bread supply and pastry treats as well as some lovely cabbage and beets from Zestful Gardens, a CSA and organic farm located in the Puyallup Valley. Now, I have never really liked cabbage as it’s all been bitter and slightly insipid. A few weeks ago we were walking by ZG’s stand, and, besides the heirloom lettuce calling to me, the cabbage sat regally in a basket. It was the sweetest, lightest, crispest, most delicious cabbage I have ever had, and each subsequent head has lived up to the first. I must go back a bit to the beginning of the season to explain this purchase. I decided, with the plethora of varied plants available, I would try new vegetables. One does not need to work so hard to convince me to try a fruit, but vegetables are another sort entirely. While it doesn’t seem like much, I’ve now tried cabbage, pea vines, and beets.
Beets always struck fear in my heart. The canned varieties looked and smelled odd while the vegetables themselves I’ve never known what to do with.
What a beautiful and delicately sweet root vegetable. If it were not for local, organic farmers my palate would remain woefully underdeveloped.
Truly, a purchase of beets is two in one: the roots and the leaves. Here I was fully prepared to make a summer borscht, but there lay all the lovely leaves. What to do with them? Well, the prevailing sentiment was to sauté the greens, but I don’t tolerate greens cooked thusly and there’s something to be said to keeping the meals cooler during the summer. Therefore I started thinking and looking ’round the kitchen. There was some ginger, garam masala, and tuna was on the menu, so an Asian theme arose. Dinner consisted of tuna marinated in lemon juice, soy sauce, ginger and garlic, summer borscht from The New Moosewood Cookbook, and beet green raita.
Ginger Tuna
Ingredients
1/2 lb tuna steaks
1/3 cups lemon juice (approximately)
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1-2 Tbsp grated or very finely chopped ginger to taste
2 Tbsp butter
One to two hours before you’re ready to cook the tuna, combine all the ingredients, except the butter, in a small glass or ceramic dish. Add the tuna and turn it over several times in the marinade until it’s thoroughly coated. Let it sit in the refrigerator until ready to cook.
To sauté, add the butter to a pan over medium high heat. When melted, add the tuna steaks and brown on each side until done. (FYI I take no responsibility to the under- or over-cooking of meat or meat products.) Some people like the tuna to be a little pink in the middle, and others not. If you want a little sauce, there should be juices left from the marinade and the tuna. Remove the tuna to a plate, turn the heat to low medium, add the juices, and reduce until thickened. Serve the tuna in a pool of the sauce or drizzle on top.
Beet Green Raita
Ingredients
3-4 cups chopped beet greens
1-3 Tbsp olive oil
1-2 tsp garam masala
1 tsp ginger
1 1/2-2 cups fatty yogurt
1 cup cucumber peeled, seeded, and diced
salt to taste
In a sauté pan, heat 1-2 Tbsp olive oil. Add to this the garam masala and ginger and stir until the masala’s scent rises from the pan. Add the beet leaves and cook until tender. Remove to a separate dish and cool. While it’s cooling, prepare the cucumber. Then, add the yogurt, cucumber, a little olive oil, and salt to taste. The beet leaves will stick together so, as the raita is mixed, carefully separate the leaves, leaving as few clumps as possible.
So, all in all this added up to a meal of Russian and Asian dishes proving to be both satisfactory and complementary, or so I’m told.



